Finishing the balcony with plastic panels: a step by step guide

Arrangement of a warm balcony makes it possible to add additional square meters to the living space, which definitely will not be superfluous. Although the room is not large in size, it is still possible to equip a functional area: an office, a bedroom, a workshop, a library, a boudoir, and even a mini-dining room. Finishing - the first stage of repair work. To bring the balcony in order, to warm and give it a "gloss", you can use different materials. The construction market offers a wide range, but plastic panels stand out against the background of wall paneling, MDF, chipboard and drywall. For the domestic consumer, the material has long ceased to be a novelty, but it has not completely lost its popularity. There are still legends around the very name of "plastic": its toxicity, fragility and unreliability. PVC was exactly like this twenty years ago, when the advanced technology of its manufacture had not yet been invented. Modern and old plastic - materials are completely different in appearance and in basic characteristics. Unfortunately, for many consumers, this quality revolution was quiet and inconspicuous, while ideas about old material remained. Let's talk about how to choose the right material and how to finish the balcony with plastic panels.

About the material

Although the consumer has become acquainted with plastic relatively recently, the material was invented at the beginning of the last century. Moreover, the chemist who received the cherished formula did not at all strive to invent something similar. At that time he was working on a completely different project. PVC, like many other inventions that have become famous and have benefited man (at least penicillin), can be called the result of a random experiment.

Initially, the plastic was heavy and had a porous surface. Such material was not suitable for interior decoration and could not compete with wood waste plates (chipboard, MDF). He demanded improvement, and the manufacturers, who earlier than the rest, realized that PVC is the future, were quick to do it. They stubbornly strived for excellence and finally, in Germany, a fundamentally new technology was invented (the method of free foaming of PVC), which made PVC the leading market for finishing materials (and not only). PVC panels have become light, and their surface is smooth. The range of colors and textures was quickly replenished with new samples that mimic a variety of materials: an elegant pattern of wood, "specks" and "stains", characteristic of the stone, the rough surface of the brick. Polyvinyl chloride panels began to replace paint and wallpaper, wall paneling, chipboard and fibreboard, drywall. Competitors gradually lost ground, and PVC won the market because of its availability.


Advantages and disadvantages of finishing and material

So what's good about PVC and what is behind this long, complex name? In fact, everything is quite simple: the balance of scales marked "dignity" significantly outweighs the capacity labeled "disadvantages". Such a ratio of pros and cons was the key to the popularity of the material. The long list of advantages of PVC includes the following qualities:

  • Low cost. PVC panels are ideal for budget repair. The ratio "price-quality" in this case has found the perfect balance.
  • Resistance to temperature fluctuations. This material is suitable for both warm balconies, and for cold rooms, where the temperature differs from the street one by a few degrees.
  • Self-snuffing and high burning temperature. Contrary to the misconceptions, the plastic used for interior decoration is not so easy to set fire to. MDF, particleboard and fiberboard ignite at lower temperatures and emit more caustic smoke and toxic substances during combustion. The reason for this was the "glue", which fasten the wood fibers and chips that make up the boards.
  • Easy installation. Plastic panels are easy to cut, and fastening methods will not be able to drive into a dead end even the most inexperienced craftsmen.
  • Low resistance to mechanical damage. Plastic panels can not be called fragile, but with a strong impact, their surface may be damaged and a dent is formed. Such areas of the wall or ceiling can be replaced without dismantling the rest of the finishing fabric.


  • Moisture resistance. Plastic is not afraid of direct contact with water. Because of this feature, panels are popular not only for balconies and loggias, but also for bathrooms and kitchens.
  • Easy to care. The panels can be washed with any household chemicals, as the material is not afraid even of products with an abrasive effect. There are no pores in the plastic into which dust and dirt could clog. Because of this, the material does not accumulate "deposits" of mold and mildew.
  • A rich assortment of colors and textures.
  • Additional heat and noise insulation. PVC panels will not warm in the bitter cold, but thanks to the cellular structure they will "help" the main insulation to keep heat particles inside the balcony.
  • Low weight. This advantage of the panels plays a special role specifically for balconies, since it is not advisable to overload such structures, especially after partial dismantling of the partition.
    Another advantage in the "piggy bank" of PVC panels will be the lack of the need to level the surface of a wall or ceiling before installing them. The material on the contrary, is used to mask the defects. As for the service life, manufacturers give different numbers: from 25 to 50 years. Perhaps the panels can really stand for half a century, but in what form they meet their old age is a mystery.


Of course, in any barrel of honey there is a place for a fly in the ointment. Although the list of drawbacks of PVC panels is much more modest than the list of advantages, they should be mentioned:

  • PVC panels are quite fragile and highly sensitive to mechanical stress. Casual about it already mentioned above. If you compare the strength of polyvinyl chloride with MDF or DSP, the material will definitely lose with a crushing score. Parallels with an array of wood and not worth it.
  • Combustion toxicity. PVC does not burn, but melts. Near it you should not put hot electrical appliances. During melting, the material can release toxic substances, however, in lower concentrations than, for example, chipboard during combustion. The toxicity of the material varies greatly depending on the production technology. Low-quality products, which are sold by dishonest dealers, are much more dangerous for human health. Quality PVC must have a "passport" - a special certificate.
  • Burnout Unfortunately, PVC panels fade in the sun in just a couple of years. The problem is relevant for balconies open to the sun. This is especially noticeable on bright surfaces with pictures. For ordinary white panels, the problem has no relevance, but such material is too boring and monotonous. Recently, manufacturers have been experimenting and creating new samples of material that do not react so sharply to constant contact with sunlight.

Another conditional flaw can be attributed to this list - prejudice attitude. This applies mainly to domestic consumers, who, at a subconscious level, are associated with low quality and the word “plastic” with disposable tableware and low-grade summer furniture.

Varieties of material

Plastic panels have their classification according to three main characteristics (except for differences in design):

  • The size.
  • Features coverage.
  • Preparation method.
  • Type of connection (seamless, with a bevel, with a relief surface).

Let's talk about each category in more detail.


By size of panels

The sizes of PVC panels can vary greatly. Their thickness depends on the destination:

  • Wall cladding panels usually have a width of 0.8 cm and up to 2-3 cm (there are also more dense materials).
  • The panels for trimming the ceiling are thinner, their thickness varies in the range of 0.5 cm-0.8 cm.

The length of the panels can also be different, but the most common variants are 2.7 m, 3.5 m, 5.95 m. The width varies from 0.1-0.5 m.


By type of coverage

Depending on the type of coating, plastic panels are classified into three groups:

  • Simple monochrome products. Their surface is devoid of drawings, so additional coverage is not used. The monotony of many may seem boring. Such panels are most often used for covering office space.
  • Varnished. On the surface of the material by offset printing or thermal transfer put a picture. That the image was fixed, from above the panel is covered with a layer of a special varnish. The composition improves plastic, but at the same time makes it more "gentle" and sensitive to scratches that are noticeable on such a surface.
  • Laminated. The surface of the panels is decorated with a structural pattern. Laminated material usually reliably mimics the texture of wood or stone.

Although lacquered and laminated panels look richer and diversify the range of finishing materials, they suffer from "photophobia" and are subject to fading. Unfortunately, “beautiful” and “practical” do not always go hand in hand.


According to the method of manufacture

PVC panels are available in three variations:

  • Tile.
  • Lining.
  • Sheet material.

Lining is a long slats, which can be positioned horizontally or vertically, depending on their length and the size of the room. Sheet - modules, the height of which can reach 4 m, and width - 2.3 m. They are mainly used for sheathing walls. Only one sheet can cover a large area, so installation will be carried out at an accelerated pace. Option optimally suited for "lazy" or rushing masters.


How to choose

Before you go to the hardware store, take on board some useful tips that will help you choose quality material:

  • Be sure to check the availability of the certificate for the products. Only certified products can be called quality.
  • Panel thickness can be checked by simply pressing a finger. If a dent remains on the material, its surface is too flexible and is completely unsuitable for finishing the balcony.
  • The quality of the material must be checked inside. The panel needs to be squeezed with two fingers and see how the stiffeners at the shear will behave. If they break, then such material will not last long. The more stiffeners in the material, the stronger it is.
  • Beware of purchasing panels of a light "mouse" shade. This material color most often indicates the use of recycled materials.

If the plans include a large-scale purchase of material "for the future", then the panels should be taken from the same batch, then they are guaranteed not to differ in color by a couple of tones. On their surface there should be no dents, scratches, chips. Be sure to check the quality of the connection: between the two panels should remain smooth, barely noticeable seam, and the edges of the modules fit each other like a key with a lock.


 

How to make calculations

Calculations are made using a simple algorithm. It is necessary to familiarize with only two parameters:

  • The surface area to be faced.
  • The length and width of the panels that are multiplied, and it turns out the area of ​​one module.

Of course, in addition, you need to take into account the type of panel (sheet, tile, lining).

Mounting methods

The panels can be mounted in two ways:

  • Directly to the surface of the wall using special glue.
  • On the crate.

The first method is more suitable for "cold" balconies, since there is no provision for insulation in this case. Consider both options in more detail.

Fixing with glue

Fix the panels with glue only on perfectly smooth walls. The slightest bias or unevenness will surely manifest itself on the surface of the panel. Clay need to buy special. He firmly connects the surface of the wall with a plastic panel, so it is impossible to replace one piece of the trim afterwards with ease, it can only be torn out “with meat”. The most serious disadvantage of this method is the impossibility of laying a layer of insulation under the material. In this case, the panels simply create the visual effect of a “beautiful finish” and slightly (very slightly) save the area that could be reserved for the batten.


Mount with crate

A batten or frame has obvious advantages that discredit the method of fixing panels with glue:

  • Makes design more sustainable.
  • Allows you to add a layer of insulation.
  • If necessary, you can easily replace both a separate panel (if it is crushed or cracked), and the entire cover, when, for example, there was a desire and opportunity to sheathe the balcony with other material.

Assembling the battens greatly complicates the process of paneling the walls, but the game is worth the candle, and the result is time spent.

Step-by-step do-it-yourself finish instruction

So, we have chosen a more reliable and solid method of mounting plastic panels - with crate. The entire workflow is divided into the following steps:

  • First step. Measurements, purchase of materials, selection of tools.
  • Preparing the walls.
  • Installing crates.
  • Warming
  • Installation of panels.

And now we will consider each stage in details.


Materials and tools

To work with plastic panels, you will need the tools that are already in the "black small suitcase" in any self-respecting master. Nothing new or unusual will not have to buy. So, you need to stock up on the following materials and tools:

  • Roulette, level, pencil.
  • Hacksaw and construction knife.
  • Drill, screwdriver (you can replace the screwdriver).
  • Construction stapler.
  • Dowels, screws with rubber sleeves.
  • Insulation (foam and foam).
  • Metal profiles for battens.
  • Guides for panels.
  • Panels made of plastic.

Separately for the preparation of the wall will require filler and primer. If there are large cracks, they will have to be cleaned using a grinder.

Wall preparation

Preparation of the walls does not take much time. If they are uneven, then lathing will help correct this deficiency, and the finishing finish will not reveal this terrible secret. With the presence of cracks will have to cope on their own. First you need to carefully examine the surface around the perimeter of the balcony. If the cracks and cracks are still there, then they are carefully cleaned, and then covered with putty. When the composition is dry, the wall is covered with a layer of primer. It is better to use products with antiseptic and sealing effect. They will prevent dampness of the wall, the appearance of fungus and mold, "leakage" of heat. The primer can be applied in two layers for greater reliability. After drying the composition (it is better to leave the balcony alone for a day) proceed to the installation of the batten.

Installation of the batten

For crates usually choose wooden slats. Since the balcony is a potentially dangerous place for wood due to possible dampness, it is better to stay on a metal profile. Reiki pre-treated with special compounds. Then begin to form the crate. Using self-tapping screws with plastic sleeves or dowels install vertical modules. Do not immediately drive them close to the wall. Perhaps their location will have to be adjusted using the lining, if the wall is uneven. The distance between the slats is usually not more than 0.5 m. Experienced craftsmen advise to fasten them to the wall in three places: at the level of the knees, waist and shoulders. These areas are considered the most "traumatic", that is, to cover the risks of accidental mechanical damage is much higher. Having strengthened the vulnerable zones, you need to check with the help of the level, how smoothly the crate is installed. If necessary, the location of the rails is adjusted, after which they are fixed completely, against the wall.

About weatherization

A layer of insulation must be carefully laid between the slats. Although the range of materials is extensive, most choose a cheap, but no less effective, foam plastic. It is ideal for "raw" balconies, as it is not afraid of moisture, like mineral wool, for example. For her would have to additionally install layers of hydro- and vapor barrier. The joints between the pieces of foam are filled with mounting foam, after which you can proceed to the installation of plastic panels.

Heater is needed even on those balconies that are not yet equipped with sealed double-glazed windows, but they are already in the plans of the owners. Subsequently, the plastic coating will have to be dismantled to lay a layer of insulation. To avoid doing extra work, it is better to use it immediately.


Panel mounting

Installation of panels start with the installation of guides. They can be of different shapes and differ in purpose. Fix the guides using a construction stapler or a screwdriver and screws. After that, proceed to consolidate the first plank. It should start with the most inaccessible and "uncomfortable" angle. The bar is not brought close at once: it must be leveled vertically (using a level) and only after that fix completely. After that, the work will go faster: a new bar is joined to the one that was installed earlier and fixed. The areas below and above the doorways are left for sweetness.

Чтобы разрезать планку вдоль, лучше использовать специальный строительный нож. For cutting across the hacksaw fit.

Nuances of trim openings

Covering the openings we left for dessert. Before trimming and installing the last strip, you need to check the quality of the docking and the tightness of the edges of those that are already attached to the crate. If there is trouble in the form of a gap, you can disguise it with a plastic skirting board, planted on glue. In the balcony door (if available), you need to make several through holes in a row in order to provide air exchange between the room and the balcony. Last process docking seams between and at the corners. They are covered with sealant. Instead of transparent, it is better to choose the composition to the color of the plastic coating. This solution will look more spectacular and more beautiful in any interior.

How to care for panels

Panels do not belong to the category of capricious materials. In the care they are very unpretentious: from the surface of the plastic from time to time you need to remove small dirt and a layer of dust, which, by the way, is very slowly deposited on PVC. All you need is a sponge or a special mop for windows with a soft nozzle (if you need to wipe the ceiling) and a cleaning agent. Wash the panel can be of any composition: with soap and water, powder, detergents for glass or dishes. The main thing is not to overdo it with additives, otherwise it will take a long time to erase divorces. Particular attention should be paid to the dirtiest areas: near the baseboard, next to the windows, under the balcony door.

Conclusion

Finishing the balcony with plastic panels will really take little time and will not require specific skills. Installation of the coating can be regarded as a learning lesson in which the novice master is unlikely to fill the bumps, but will receive invaluable experience. If you decide to use panels with a print or pattern, then their surface is better protected from the harmful effects of sunlight and hang curtains or blinds on the windows. Then the coating will retain its original appearance longer, and the repeated repair of the balcony will be delayed for at least a couple of years.

Watch the video: DIY Screen Porch: Simple Step by Step Instructions Video 1 (April 2024).

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